Living France: How did you come to live in the UK?
Jean-Christophe Novelli: As a child it was my dream to live in Britain. I first came here on a school trip when I was ten and I knew I would come back again. I was 22 when I came back the next time, and I’ve stayed here nearly 25 years.
LF: After so long in Britain, what do you miss most about France?
J-C N: I still miss my mum’s home cooking. I also miss Arras [in Nord-Pas-de-Calais] where I grew up. I love the town for its big squares and beautiful architecture. And I still miss my friends, of course.
LF: What do you bring back from your trips to France?
J-C N: My friends record French TV documentaries and television series for me so I bring them back. I also bring back champagne, bêtises de Cambrai (sweets from the north of France) and nougat for my English friends, special things that are unique to France and are made only in certain terroirs [areas]. Apart from those things, you can easily buy anything you want in the UK. I always used to bring back my mum’s stuffed tomatoes but they won’t let me do that anymore!
LF: Are you well known in your home town of Arras?
J-C N: Very much so – apparently I’m the ambassador for the town! I don’t think you should ever forget where you come from.
LF: Do you think your career would have developed differently if you’d stayed in France?
J-C N: Definitely. I would probably have a very different lifestyle from the one I have in Britain; not necessarily an unhappy one, just different to how my life is now. I don’t think I’d have had the chance to express myself as much in France as I have in the UK. Perhaps now it would be different but 25 years ago I couldn’t have followed the same career path in France. If I had stayed there, I would have ended up in the south with a tan!
LF: What sort of advice would you give British people who want to spend more time in France?
J-C N: I think cities such as Paris are great but it’s important to go out and explore the villages, discover the terroirs. France has so much to offer, even for French people. By going out to the villages you’ll discover our traditions and artisans. France has so many artisans and craftsmen, there are so many people around the country creating things and they just don’t promote themselves. It’s like this in the wine industry too, France produces some of the most amazing wine on the planet, but [the winemakers] don’t know how to market themselves.
LF: But you are good at marketing yourself, even as a Frenchman.
J-C N: That’s because I have lived in Britain! The British are the best in Europe at marketing themselves.
LF: French bureaucracy is notoriously difficult to deal with. When you were setting up your businesses in the UK did you have any difficulties to overcome?
J-C N: I’ve never had any problems in the UK, in fact I opened four businesses in one year which is how long it took me to open one in France. It was a nightmare! I think in Britain people are more proactive, which I like. Things happen a lot faster here.
LF: Why do you think the French have such a good reputation when it comes to food?
J-C N: In France the regions are very different; they have different climates, different cultures and architecture. There’s so much different produce coming from different areas and it is being used correctly. I think the French know how to use the best of their terroir. It’s starting to happen in Britain but it’s been like that in France for a long time. In France when you think of Arcachon you think of oysters, if you go to Cavaillon [in Vaucluse] you know you’ll be able to buy the best melons. Did you know that the French have the smallest fridges in the world, because they go shopping every couple of days to buy fresh produce?
LF: Is there anything you would have done differently in your career?
J-C N: No, I would have done things exactly the same way. Perhaps the only thing I should have done differently was to learn the basics of English before I came to Britain. I worked with French people for three years when I arrived in the UK because I was trying to make my career as a chef, but actually I should have been learning the language too. My daughter used to teach me English when she came home from school.
LF: Are you keeping busy these days?
J-C N: Yes, definitely. I am working with Findus to develop a new range which is funny because when I was a kid we used to have Findus crispy pancakes as a treat, and now I’m the face of Findus. My cookery school, the Novelli Academy, is now recognised as one of the best in the world. I love teaching, it’s great not to have to cook against the clock, to be able to have real contact with people. My gastropub The White Horse in Harpenden also keeps me busy.
LF: What about the future?
J-C N: My new book, Everyday Novelli, is coming out in February; it’s full of fantastic, easy-to-follow recipes. I’m also off to the United States next year as I’m not known out there yet.
LF: What would be your last meal?
J-C N: It would have to be my mum’s baked tomatoes [see recipe, right]. Actually, I wouldn’t care if my last meal was just a sandwich, it’s more important that I share it with people I care about.
LF: Are you excited about appearing at The France Show 2008 in January at Olympia, London?
J-C N: Yes, I’ll be cooking recipes from my new book and giving everyone a taster of my Novelli Cookery Academy. It’s great that people can come and experience France over one, two or three days and find new things as well as things they already love about France. France is very traditional but it’s always developing; there’s always something new to discover.
Beef tomato baked with lamb mince, aubergine caviar and Gruyère glaze
This is one of my mother’s favourite recipes and always brings back fond memories at this festive time of year.
Serves: 6
Preparation time: 15-20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
• 6 beef tomatoes
• 8 tbsp virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp cumin seeds
• 100g shallots – peeled
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
• 1 tsp Tabasco sauce
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 10-12 basil leaves
• 500cl dry white wine
• 500g lean minced lamb
• 2 cloves garlic - peeled and chopped
• 3 tsp sugar
• 6 slices of Gruyère or Emmenthal cheese
• 1 small aubergine
• salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 160°C/ Gas 3 / Fan assisted 140°C
• Cut a slice off the top of each tomato and spoon out all the insides. Keep the shell to one side to drain.
• Heat the pulp in a pan and add a dash of olive oil and the cumin seeds.
• Bring to the bubble and add the shallots, tomato puree, half the thyme and basil leaves and sweat together.
• Pour in the wine and stir in the lamb mince. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for a further five minutes. Add the garlic and the remaining basil leaves and stir.
• Meanwhile cut the aubergine in half lengthways, season with salt and pepper and 1 tsp sugar and the rest of the thyme.
• Heat a heavy based pan, liberally coat with olive oil then place the aubergines face down onto the oil. Cover with a lid and cook for 15-20 minutes, turning a couple of times to ensure an even colouring. Once cooked, allow to cool before scooping the pulp from their skins.
• Season the shells of the six tomatoes and place a little of the aubergine caviar in the bottom of each.
• Spoon the meat mixture into the tomatoes and place onto a baking tray into the preheated oven for ten minutes. Then remove and add the cheese and return for a further five minutes to glaze.