Skiing in the Pyrenees
Brits have been visiting the French Alps in increasing numbers, whether for the superb skiing or the beauty of the summer pastures. But when it comes to winter breaks, we overlook the Pyrenees.
While visiting Pau several years ago in the summertime, I stood on the Boulevard des Pyrénées and gazed up at the mountains, hoping to return someday. Now, from my room at the Hôtel Parc Beaumont, I could see those same snow-capped peaks - only this time I’d come prepared for winter. Armed with goggles, ski gloves and an impressive selection of thermals, I was ready to see what the mountains had to offer.
Getting started
For those who fancy a taster rather than a full-on ski holiday, Pau makes a great base. An hour from Gourette, the nearest station de ski, it has plenty of culture, green spaces and historic buildings – and ample opportunity to shop for the delicious local Jurançon wine.
The Hôtel Parc Beaumont offers a ski package of a one-day ski pass and bed, breakfast and dinner. Unlimited use of the hotel spa is also included - perfect for reviving aching limbs after a day on the slopes.
Gourette’s skiable domaine includes a large area, the Espace Évolution Bézou, devoted solely to beginners and I enjoyed being able to smugly master the gentle green piste without hearing the whoosh of more courageous skiers hurtling past. Instead of a drag lift (I quiver at the thought), a tapis-roulant, which translates as ‘moving carpet’ and is actually a kind of conveyor belt, transported me back to the top of the piste after each glide down the gentle slopes. The views from the slopes are stunning and, with the breathtaking Pic du Ger high above you, I guarantee your eyes will be turned skywards.
Gourette is mainly frequented by the French, as well as the Spanish who nip across the border for some good-value skiing and many locals drive up for the day – it’s not uncommon to see people skiing in jeans, as if they’ve just stopped off to tackle a piste or two before lunch. The atmosphere in the resort is relaxed; the skiers here to enjoy the snow rather than to clock designer outfits and the quality of each other’s parallel turns.
Snowshoes
Deciding to venture further afield, we visited the resort of La Pierre St-Martin in the Vallée de Barétous and for those who want to experience the beauty of the domaine without skis, much of the area is accessible by snowshoe.
We spent hours padding around in deep powder and running up snow banks then tumbling down. It was extreme snowshoeing – and great fun but it doesn’t have to be this tiring: follow the green trails for a gentle stroll.
A holiday in the snow doesn’t always mean hurtling downhill at speed. It is as much about appreciating the simple beauty of a lone snow-laden pine tree, the satisfaction of kicking off your boots after an exhilarating day, or tucking into a hearty dish of mountain food in front of a roaring fire. The Pyrenees offer all these things - and more.
The Télé N’Pass ski pass allows skiers allows access to all seven ski stations across the Pyrenees. For more details visit www.n-py.com
GETTING THERE
Ryanair operates flights to Pau from London Stansted and Bristol For more details visit www.ryanair.com
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Parc Beaumont
1, avenue Edouard VII
64000 Pau
Tel: 00 3 (0)5 59 11 84 00
www.hotel-parc-beaumont.com
Hotel le Pic d’Anie
64570 La Pierre Saint-Martin
Tel: 00 33 (0)5 59 66 00 05
2-star hotel right on the slopes
WHERE TO EAT
Hôtel Restaurant de l’Amoulat
Route VVF
64440 Gourette
Tel: 00 33 (0)5 59 05 12 06
Spatule et Fourchette
64570 Arette La Pierre Saint-Martin
Tel: 00 33 (0)5 59 66 10 51